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The wide array of medium dark skin  tones can be complimented with either  reddish or darkened henna.  The reddish tones over dark skin will have low contrast creating subtle effects.  If  this is desired, apply a henna paste from a rainy season harvest mixed only with lemon juice, allow it to dry, and seal it to the skin.  If the air temperature is cool,  warm the hennaed area with steam from a tea kettle, simmering pan of water or garment steamer frequently over several hours. If the temperature is hot, over 90F , that will be sufficient to set the color over several hours.  If the air is chilly, wrap the henna to protect the pattern from being brushed away by clothing and bedding, and to deepen the stain.


7) Traditional Tunisian henna patterns to avert evil.


Here are henna patterns for subtle effects

To wrap henna, let the paste dry completely on the skin, and seal it down with New Skin, or another preferred sealer.   Apply cotton fluff, available from beauty supply shops or quilting supply shops, or toilet paper, wrapped around thickly enough to absorb perspiration.  There must be enough absorbing material to prevent perspiration dripping and smearing the pattern.   Wrap over that with cling wrap, and secure it with packing tape.  Over several hours or overnight, the wrap will trap heat and moisture, rehydrating the henna paste.  This enables greater stain penetration, and gives richer color results.  Additional steaming will intensify the color.  Pictures of wrapping henna are at: Mehandi: http://www.tapdancinglizard.com/mehandi/mix/mix.shtml


8) Patterns adapted from border ornament in a Koran, Egypt, 18th c.


Make use of thicker areas of skin, such as backs of  fingers and across the knuckles. These  areas stain easily,  so henna patterns will be most distinct there.  Skin on the  top of the hand is thinner, and the stain there will be more  transparent.  Further up the arm, the oil content of the  skin will resist henna uptake.   Toes and tops of feet and  legs have similar stain characteristics.

9) Traditional pattern from Nigeria, representing cowrie shells, a symbol of feminine sexuality and luck.

Many traditional African patterns balance contrasting  dark and light areas of henna and skin rather than relying  on a dark  line on pale skin to create pattern. Fine henna  lines may be difficult to see on dark skin.   Broader areas  of henna can be given  heavier applications than single  lines, and get more intense contrast to the skin color. Including the essential oils with high levels of terpinene and pinene will add to color intensity.  The African aesthetic fondness for asymmetry and bold patterns creates dramatic henna!

link to "Creating harmony with contrasting tones"

Other women of color have honey-toned skin that harmonizes beautifully with henna.  These women may choose redder or browner hennaes, both will give contrast and definition with fine lines.  Use different essential oils, different line thickness, heating and duration of application to create different tones on skin.


10) Pattern adapted from Ethiopian art

11) Traditional pattern from northeast Nigeria





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