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Catherine Cartwright-Jones c 2002 Ever wonder what's in your henna powder? Why do some powders clog? Why are some so green? Will you have to sift the powder to get it through a tip, and waste time and money? Are you paying money for sand and grit rather than henna? What will you see if you look up close? I mixed items sold as henna powders with lemon juice and left them 20 minutes, then put them between microscope slides and photographed them at 60x. These slides show henna powders' comparitive particle size, and whether they have debris, other plant material, and dye. Rubbing the two microscope slides together made a gritting sound if there was sand or mineral debris in the henna. Here's what you should know before you look at the pictures: Particle size doesn't have anything
whatsoever to do with stain results.
Particle size:
Many henna powders have particles larger than this lead. If you look at the microscopic pictures of the powder, you'll see if you're getting henna you'll have to sift, like this one:
Sifting:
DYE:
The vivid green chunks here, spreading green are artificial green dye, coal tar dye, added to make the product more "eye-appealing". The presence of green dye is irrelevant to the stain. The presence of this dye and is confirmed and identified in: "Study of Quality Characteristics of Henna", Chourasia, Sardar, Patil, Mathew,Kanpur, India: Essential Oil Association of India, 1989 "Major contaminants /adulterants in henna leaves are stems, dirt, plant waste and other leaves. However in case of henna powder admixture of dyed sand is observed. It shas been reported that for adulteration, finely ground local sand is used. It is first dyed with auramine yellow (C.I. No. 41000) and then green with diamond green (C.I. No. 20440). This is then mixed with pure henna powder. The extent of adulteraion is viariable in accordance with the price of the powder reflected therein. "Added azo dyes were not found in henna leaf samples, but yellow and green coal tar dyes were observed in powdered samples. As mentioned earlier, this may be due to the presence of (the afore mentioned dyed sand). Unlike Lawsone, the natural color of henna, these added synthetic azo-dyes used for dyeing the sand or for polishing the leaves may have an adverse effect on the skin. It is, therefore, necessary to ensure that these artificial dyes are not there in the product marketed. Virtually all henna powders from India that I have surveyed have this dye! Other Dye Plants Added to Henna:
The deep red pieces in this picture are Myrobalan, a dye plant: Myrobalan \My*rob"a*lan\ (?), Myrobolan \My*rob"o*lan\ (?), ] n. [L.
myrobalanum the fruit of a palm tree from which a balsam was made.
A dried astringent fruit much resembling a prune. It contains tannin, and
was formerly used in medicine, but is now chiefly used in tanning and dyeing.
Myrobolans are produced by various species of Terminalia of the East Indies,
and of Spondias of South America.
The round clear spheres are air bubbles trapped between microscope slides. Ignore them. Grit:
Henna powders viewed through a microscope at 60x: Afshan:
Al
Henna
Amazing
Body Art Supply "black henna"
Art
With Love
Ayur,
August 2002
Ayur
sample B, September 2002
Bina
Black
Henna
Black
Rose Kali Mehandi "black henna:
Beauty
Henna "Black Henna"
Divya
Summer 2000
Divya
Black Henna Summer 2000
Dulhan
Spring 2002 New York
Dulhan
September 2002 Detroit
Five
Fives
Frontier
Henna
Indigo
Hana
Atabake
HennaWorks
henna powder Summer 2001
Harazi
July 2002
Hasina
September 2002
Jamila
(body art quality) Summer 2002
Jamila
(hair quality) summer 2002
Jani
Henna, Summer 2001
J
B and Co. Summer 2002
Kenzi
Sping 2002
Kenzi
Summer 2002
Kimia
2001
Kimia,
August 2002
Kina:
August 2001
LifeArt
Henna Powder from Mehndi Mud Spring 2001:
Mangal
Mazaya,
August 2002
Mazaya,
October 2002
Mughleazam
Mumtaz
al_Aroosa, September 2002
Mumtaz
al Aroosa, October 2002
Navaid
1 August 2002
Navaid
Sarah sample 1, Spring 2002
Navaid
Sarah, sample 2, Fall 2002
Mystery
Henna Summer 2002
ONS
Henna September 2002
Persian
Red Summer 2002
Raachni
Henna:
Radico
2001
Radico
2002
Sahara
Tazarine
Sharkiyya
2001
Sharkiyya
October 2002
Shelly
September 2002
Shihri
July 2002
Shihri
October 2002
TaziiAugust
2002
Usha
August 2002,
Zarqua
Black Henna
Zubeda
If you think databasing microscopic pictures of henna is a good idea, so everyone can learn more about henna marketing patterns, geography, improvements in quality over time, deterioration in quality, adulteration, purity, weather effect, geographic factors, ethnic preferences ... PLEASE send me samples of henna YOU have! The more complete a database is, the more useful it is. I'd love to have a complete record of henna going back to at least 1995, when henna started to become popular world wide. We can all learn so much from this, and perhaps make henna better for everyone. Please send henna samples to:
It is preferable to have unopened packages.
Henna artists and researchers will thank you! Before
this, there was NO public database with microscopic pictures of henna.
Help make this database grow so everyone can learn more about henna!
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